Australian Battlefields of World War 1 - France

In October 2009 I found myself in the position to be able once again to visit the Australian battlefields of northern France. Without hesitation I contacted Colin Gillard (colingillard@orange.fr) from Cobbers Australian Battlefield Tours (as they are now know) and arranged a 3 day tour.

Day 1

After an early start to the day in Paris, I checked out of my hotel and headed to Gare du Nord to catch the train to Amiens for the start of my battlefield tour.

Once I had located the right platform I hopped on board the train and made myself comfortable for the two hour trip north to Amiens.

I arrived without incident at Amiens and waited in the station for Colin. I was soon aboard his van with two other Aussies heading for our first stop in Albert.

The first location in Albert was the cathedral, Notre Dame de Brebières (Our Lady of the Ewes), on top of which is the gold statue of the Madonna holding Jesus. During the war, when the town was shelled the statue was hit and toppled over until it hung parrallel to the ground. You can probably get an idea of this from the picture below on the one of the walls in the town as well as the period photo.

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The legend grew that when the statue of the Madonna fell the war would end. It was knocked down in April 1918 by British artillery but the war continued until November 1918. The statue itself was never recovered and is thought to have been shipped to Germany for its metal value.

There are number of tunnels that runs beneath the town. The starting point for some is this park where Colin took us to get a better view of the Cathedral and the wall mural.

Our next stop was to be the British Memorial at Theipval.

Since my last visit to the area in 2001 a new visitors centre and exhibition has been constructed.

Although not very big the centre here provides an excellent overview of the whole war. It has a fantastic range of information presented in a very engaging way.

From here we headed out on foot for the short walk to the memorial.

British Memorial at Theipval

The war memorial here is the largest in the world.

British Memorial at Theipval

If you walk through the memorial you will find a small cemetery in which are buried both French and British soldiers. It symbolizes the bond between these two nations during the conflict.

Cross of Sacrifice

Cemetry at rear of memorial

Names of the missing on memorial

Tributes to the fallen

As we returned to the van Colin filled us in with more history about the memorial and what an important location it has become for not only tourists but also for school children. His point that it is important to educate children about the horrors that transpired rather than shield them from the violence. This is going to be more beneficial in the long run by hopefully preventing such events from happening again. A point will made.

Our next stop was only a short distance away outside the town of Poziers.

Australian 1st Division MemorialAt the western entrance to the town stands the first of the five Australian Divisional memorials located in the battlefields. This one is dedicated to the men of the Australian 1st Division.

Looking west away from town

Remnants of 'Gibraltar'Just across from the car park, on the other side of the road to the memorial are the remnants of the German blockhouse or fortress known as 'Gibraltar' that once guarded the entrance to the town. There is not much left of it at all now, and certainly less than the last time I visited in 2001.

Australian 1st Division Memorial

Luckily on the day we were blessed with fine weather and from the viewing platform you can just make out the British Memorial at Theipval from which we had just come.

British Theipval Memorial in distance

Theipval was the ultimate objectives of the attacks in this region.

Australian 1st Division Memorial

Location plaque

At most locations throughout the battlefields you'll also find these information plaques giving you some of the history and surrounding locations.

Australian 1st Division Memorial

Each Divisional memorial has a plaque displaying the battle honours of the Division.

Our next stop was at the vicinity of Mouquet Farm.

Mouquet FarmThe plaque denotes the furthest extent which the Australians reached during the battles of Poziers before being relieved. The actual farm is currently private property but Colin told us that this maybe set to change in the future given the importance of the location.

We circled back and then through the town of Poziers heading east to the Windmill site.

It was now time to head to our hotel in Perrone to get some rest for our long trip tomorrow to Ipres in Belgium.

Our accomdation was at Hotel St Claude right in the centre of Peronne. Given its association with Cobbers Australian Battlefield Tours we were warmly welcomed. I was also pleasantly surprised by my room which turned out to be excellent and very roomy as you can see from below.

After unpacking I headed downstairs to the hotel restaurant to have dinner with my 'tourees' and whiled away the time discussing what we had seen today and what our trip to Ipres tomorrow was likely to reveal.

Day 2

After breakfast we were greeted by a brisk morning in Peronne. We jumped into Colin's van for a full day of touring in and around Ipres in Belgium.

Our first stop was at the battlefields of Fromelles. Colin took us to look at the Pheasants Wood area where a number of missing diggers have been recovered recently.

Forensic recovery centreHere we saw the forensic recovery centre that has been identifying the bodies and just across the road is the new cemetery in which the 'lost diggers' will be buried.

New cemetry at FromellesColin raised an interesting point about the investment the Australian government has made in identifying these remains. If they have done this for these soldiers shouldn't it also be provided to all the remaining unidentified remains of the battlefields? With that in mind perhaps it would have been simply better to bury the remains found here in unknown graves.

We then headed to VC Corner cemetery.

VC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryVC Corner CemeteryJust a short distance up the road is the Cobbers Memorial.

Cobbers Memorial

Cobbers MemorialCobbers MemorialCobbers MemorialCobbers MemorialCobbers MemorialCobbers MemorialCobbers MemorialCobbers MemorialCobbers MemorialCobbers MemorialCobbers MemorialWe then continued on, stopping at the Franco/Belgium border for lunch.

Looking back into France from Belgium

As you drive along throughout this region you can't help be struck by the tremendous loss of life that occurred all these years ago and how the memories still linger.

Our next stop was Hill 60 near Ipres.

Here you will also find the memorial to the 1st Australian Tunnelling company.

Australian Tunnelling Company MemorialAustralian Tunnelling Company Memorial

Also nearby are the remains of the massive explosions that rocked the area during the Messines offensive.

From here we headed to Polygon Wood and the 5th Division Memorial.

Australian 5th Division Memorial

Next we headed to the largest Commonwealth cemetery on the battlefields - Tyne Cot.

The town of Passcendaele that was the object of the Third Battle of Ipres which can be seen from Tyne Cot.

Tyne Cot CemeteryTyne Cot CemeteryTyne Cot CemeteryTyne Cot CemeteryTyne Cot CemeteryTyne Cot CemeteryTyne Cot CemeteryTyne Cot CemeteryTyne Cot CemeteryTyne Cot CemeteryTyne Cot CemeteryOur next stop was at the entrance to the town of Ipres, better known as the Menin Gate. It was through these arches that so many marched to the horrors of the battles of Ipres never to return.

Menin Gate

The walls of the Gate are covered with the names of the missing.

You can walk up inside the Gate and onto the ramparts that used to form the old defences of the town.

From the top of the walls next to the Gate you look out onto what once was the killing fields of Ypres.

Menin Gate

The names of the dead seem to go on for ever, because no matter where you look on the Gate there is just name after name after name.

Menin GateMenin GateIt is only a short stroll from the Menin Gate to the town square in Ipres in which you will find the famous Cloth Hall that was virtually destroyed by the war but has since been rebuilt.

Cloth Hall - IpresCloth Hall - IpresCloth Hall - IpresMenin in distanceCloth Hall - IpresCloth Hall - IpresAfter enjoying probably the best cappacino that I have ever had we reluctantly climbed back aboard Colin's van for the long trip back to Perrone. The miles passed really quickly as we discussed all the sights we had seen along the way with Colin providing details about the history and events as well.

I couldn't believe how tired I was upon arrival back in Perrone. We all grabbed a meal at a local restaurant, which was again excellent. Tomorrow unfortunately was going to be the last full day of the tour but I was really looking forward to it since it would cover many areas that I had not experienced on my previous tour in 2001.

Day 3

The first location for today was going to be the Australian 4th Division memorial near Bellenglise. The location of this memrorial is a funny one. It is located in a field far away from any roads or other major attactions.

I was amazed at how remote the memorial was and unfortunately due to the conditions of the 'official' road to the memorial, Colin wasn't confident that van would successfully negotiate what could only be called a track. Disappointed, I hopped out and took what photos I could.

Australian 4th Division Memorial in the distanceAustralian 4th Division Memorial in the distance

It is little wonder that this memorial is the least visited on the battlefields. Colin promised that he would try another route he knew of to the memorial that may have a better approach road later on.

We headed into the town of Bellenglise.

Bellenglise

Many people believe that the words:

Nous n'oublions pas L'Australie (We do not forget Australia) only appear in Villers Bretennoeux however as Colin showed us, that is incorrect. They also appear on the town hall here in Bellenglise.

Our next stop was the St Quentin canal and specifically a bridge over the canal.

St Quentin canalSt Quentin canalThere is a famous picture of a British general addressing the troops from this very bridge during the war. What is so interesting about this picture is that some of the men are wearing life jackets, which is rather strange. Colin told us that when these troops were brought up they we informed they would have to cross a 'body of water'. They figured it to be quite large so they took life vests from the transports from which they came to France on.

Next stop was the Calvaire cemetry in Montbrein.

MontbrienMontbrienMontbrienMontbrienThis cemetery contains the last Australians killed in battle on the Western Front during World War 1.

The canals of St Quentin run for quite a distance in the area and date back to the period of Napoleon I. We stopped to look an one of the tunnel entrances to the canals as they made their way across the countryside.

As a contrast we stopped at a American cemetery at Bony.

American Cemetery at Bony

and an American memorial

As promised, Colin took us via another route to the Australian 4th Division memorial. This is one of the great things about Colin, apart from his extensive knowledge, is that fact that he'll really do everything he can to make sure you get to see the locations you want to see.

Australian 4th Division MemorialAustralian 4th Division MemorialAustralian 4th Division MemorialAustralian 4th Division Memorial

This memorial stands on the location of the Hindenburg Line north of St Quentin. It marks the most eastern point reached by the Australians in 1918.

Australian 4th Division MemorialAustralian 4th Division MemorialAustralian 4th Division MemorialAustralian 4th Division MemorialWe headed back to Perronne to grab some lunch.

We then made our way just outside Perronne to Mont St Quentin and the Australian 2nd Division memorial.

Australian 2nd Division Memorial

Australian 2nd Division MemorialPlaqueAustralian 2nd Division MemorialAustralian 2nd Division MemorialAustralian 2nd Division MemorialAustralian 2nd Division MemorialAustralian 2nd Division MemorialAustralian 2nd Division MemorialAustralian 2nd Division MemorialColin then took us a little bit further up the Mont to a location that he is hoping to convert into an Australian battlefield centre.

We then headed off to Bullecourt, however along the way Colin stopped to show us an example of the ordance that is still being turned up with every season.

I was excited to finally get to see the Bullecourt for myself. Our first stop was just outside the town at the location of no-man's land, between the Australian and German lines before the battle.

Australian front line position prior to the battle of BullecourtGerman front line prior to the battle of Bullecourt

From here, we went into the town, to the local church where the famous Australian slouch hat memorial stands.

BullecourtBullecourtBullecourtBullecourtBullecourt

We then moved onto the Digger Corlett Memorial.

Digger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialBullecourt from the Digger Corlett MemorialBehind the Digger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialDigger Corlett MemorialA little further down the road is a memorial marking the Australian trench lines during the battle. It marks the second trench line of the Australian troops.

We then visited a small museum in Bullecourt that was created by Jean Letaille, the ex-Mayor of the town. It is located at his house at 1 rue d'Arras.

Old railway tracks

You'll find a barn which contains the larger pieces of Jean's collection as well an outbuilding that houses a vast array of smaller items.

There is a walking tour of the battlefield pamplet available here which covers an eight kilometre, two hour sign posted walk of the Australian memorials and battle locations.

We headed back to the hotel after what had been an excellent day. I was especially pleased to have covered so much ground I had not seen before as well as being able to visit the Australian 4th Division Memorial.

Day 4

Waiting in hotel lobby for ColinGiven that we would only really having the morning for the final day of the tour, the plan was to spend it in and around Villers Bretennoeux.

Our first port of call was the Australian Corp Memorial at Le Hamel, which has been greatly improved since my last visit in 2001.

Australian Corp MemorialAustralian Corp MemorialVillage of Le HamelField surrounding Australian Corp MemorialField surrounding Australian Corp MemorialAustralian Corp MemorialAustralian Corp MemorialAustralian Corp MemorialAustralian Corp MemorialAustralian Corp MemorialAustralian Corp MemorialAustralian Corp MemorialAustralian Corp MemorialAustralian Corp Memorial

Our next stop was just outside the town of Villers Bretennoux, at the Australian National Memorial.

The Australian Memorial is actually at the rear of a Commonwealth cemetery, which is at the top of the rise.

Luckily on such a fine day like today the Memorial tower was open.

View from the Memorial tower

View from the Memorial towerView from the Memorial towerView from the Memorial towerView from the Memorial towerView from the Memorial towerView from the Memorial towerView from the Memorial towerView from the Memorial towerView from the Memorial towerView from the Memorial towerView from the Memorial tower

When then proceeded to our final stop on the tour, the museum on top of the school in Villers Bretennoux.

There is probably nothing more provocative than the sign that is displayed in the playground of the school here in Villers Bretennoux. Over 90 years after the event this small town in northern France still pays hommage to the Australians who came and liberated the town from the German occupiers. I certainly hope that more and more Australians begin to appreciate the sacrifices that these men made all those years ago and given them at least the same recognition that the people of France do.

And with that, the tour had finally come to an end. Three marvellous days, in marvellous weather was even better than my last visit with Colin in 2001.

We all said our goodbyes as Colin dropped us off at the station and I headed back to Paris to continune with the rest of my trip.

As I waited on the train at Ameins for the ride back to Paris, I reflected on how many new areas of the battlefields I had seen. As Colin will tell you, you can spend days and days here and really not scratch the surface of the history of the region. Best of all there are tours to suit everyone, from those with just a casual interest to those euthanists who want to actually walk the trenchlines, it is all available. Without doubt, if you are planning to visit this area and want the best guide in the business then don't hesitate to contact Colin Gillard (colingillard@orange.fr) of Cobbers Australian Battlefield Tours (www.anzac-tours.com). He will not only provide you with the best tour of the region but he will help you understand why this area of France is now truely part of Australian history.